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 Surfing is riding the waves on a board. You take the board as far out to sea as you feel inclined. You then "trim" - which means you turn to face the shore and position yourself for some powerful wave bearing down on you. As the wave bears you shorewards, you rise from a crouching or kneeling position to full height - or that is what you try to do. Experienced surfers attempt all kinds of tricks while being borne shoreward. They range from "hot dogging" (a generally jerking around) to the extremely difficult "hanging ten" - which means standing at the front of the board and gripping the edge with all ten toes. WHERE YOU DO IT On a bit of sea with big waves. In Britain, this means the West Country, Cornwall and St. Ives and the Atlantic.WHAT IT COSTS Hire one for a pound a day, but if you want to buy one a full-size board as used by experts will cost between £20 and £45. This type has a wood centre overlaid with fibreglass. But you can probably have fun with a modest plywood job costing 34s. 6d! |
HOW TO START Take your board into shallow water. Learn how to paddle it and control it. Then try taking the board out about 25 yards and coming back on it while lying face-down. More experienced surfers will give you tips on how to develop from there. Don't be afraid to spend a couple of weeks feeling your way before you start anything ambitious. (you can, by the way, try yourself out for balance on a mini-board made for use on land.) For any kind of surfing information write to: The Secretary, Surf Life Saving Association of Great Britain, The Surf Store, The Digey, St. Ives, Cornwall.HERMAN SAYS "I started having a bash at surfing in America early last summer. The Hermits and I were in Panama City and got matey with some students from Jacksonville University. They taught us a few things about surfing and lent us their boards to have a go."Well, the Hermits and I have done quite a bit since then. We dig the sport like anything. But I made one big mistake at the start. I thought if you fell off the board - 'wiped out', that is - it would just be a giggle. I learned better! You come quite a wallop. You can even get a wallop if the board hits you. So I strongly advise getting plenty of know-how in shallow water before you go in for the big deal stuff." |
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